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clicker training

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Author Topic: clicker training  (Read 1457 times)

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sparks

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clicker training
« on: September 24, 2012, 04:29:39 PM »

wondered what peoples views were on using this as i have heard it used by many on the web, just wanted to know any pro's and con's on it.
I know its only one method and you can replace it to something else later, give us your thoughts.
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Pat

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Re: clicker training
« Reply #1 on: September 24, 2012, 05:26:03 PM »

Yes it works...but...I found it awkward to hold the clicker, treat and stick if I was doing stick training, plus Charlie started to click like the clicker, so I gave up.  I just use my voice, when he does something right I whoop it up and praise him, give him a little treat, if he doesn't get what he is supposed to do, then he doesn't get praise or treat.  It works just as well.  :dance:

sparks

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Re: clicker training
« Reply #2 on: September 24, 2012, 06:13:47 PM »

That was the way i was thinking and similar to what i do but wondered if i should try something else, i just see it mentioned so many times (by people selling tips) i might add. I was not planning for him to do tricks just to be hand tame to get more out of life really, if he ends up doing more in time and he's happy doing it fine. He an old bird so i know its not going to be easy.
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FeatherMonkey

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Re: clicker training
« Reply #3 on: September 25, 2012, 07:07:07 AM »

I use one all the time for reinforcement on new things. As it's the primary enforcer once loaded it doesn't matter too much in the timing of the secondary. I walk 100m sometimes with the treat.

The thing with the clicker is you can react quicker, with voice sometimes it can be too slow. If you ask me these fellows sometimes are goldfish and have no idea why they've just been praised.

Sometimes you don't even need the treat, you just have to work it out, I can give plenty of praise and stop the session sometimes. The hardest bit is learning when to stop the session. Also when to command thin, whilst we call it trick training it isn't really it's rewarding an interaction session.

If they don't want to do it forcing them will just lead to a bad session, some days they just won't do it.  I've tried calling them out of the hall and got nowhere then my brother tries and gets a response straight away.  Also try not to clicker machine gun, and try not to repeat, I stick with twice no response then try another trick or focus on the other bird, otherwise you teach them I'll ask loads of times and they'll think when I want.

Also always end a session on a positive ideally finishing before they want to.
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Stef/Stefan

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Re: clicker training
« Reply #4 on: September 25, 2012, 07:18:43 AM »

That was the way i was thinking and similar to what i do but wondered if i should try something else, i just see it mentioned so many times (by people selling tips) i might add. I was not planning for him to do tricks just to be hand tame to get more out of life really, if he ends up doing more in time and he's happy doing it fine. He an old bird so i know its not going to be easy.

I know what you mean, my birds don't do tricks as such, I just build on what they do naturally.  I don't want Charlie riding a bike, but a nice wave bye bye is good. lol.  I find that Charlie will work better in the morning, after his big poop and before breakfast, don't do any training for more than approx 10 minutes because they will get fed up and you will get frustrated.  Always end on a high note because then they will look forward to doing it again.  If you end up with them not doing what you want, you getting frustrated and them getting no treat, they won't be so keen to do anything for you next time.  Use different sized bits of treats, if for example I am using walnut, I use half a walnut and chop it up into different sizes so that Charlie doesn't know what size bit he is getting.  Also, I don't let him see the treat because he will just hold out for something different, or a bigger piece, so keep the treats in a closed hand or pocket.  You will be surprised how much your bird will want to learn, as long as he isn't afraid of sticks, try the stick training first, that comes in very handy for moving them away from where you don't want them to be!
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