There is a number of formulated diet, otherwise known as pellets, present on the market. They are marketed as “complete” diets, which is a very misleading term. Most pellet manufacturers suggest the amount of pellets fed to be around 80% of the whole diet. This notion has been disapproved and argued with by many aviculturists. For a start, there are no pellets which would  differ in the composition depending on the bird§. So an african grey will receive just the same amount of every nutrient found in a pellet as would a budgie. However these two birds come from two completely different parts of the world and have quite different nutritional requirements. For example, African Greys are know to be calcium deficient more often than other parrot species, however budgies require a much smaller amount of calcium, as do cockatiels.

However, the pellets do provide a balanced complete protein, a wide range of vitamins and minerals. To balance out any possible overdosing or “underdosing” of the nutrients, it is suggested to feed pellets in the amounts of about 50% of the overall diet. Pellets also supply vitamin D to the diet, which is not found in other foods.

The brands of pellets to consider are: Hagen Tropical Granules, Harrisons Organic pellets, Zupreem pellets.

So what should the other 50% be made up of?

The greatest part of it should be made up of vegetables. The vegetables can make up to 40% of the whole diet. All vegetables and fruit have to be thoroughly washed before serving. It is best to buy organic and seasonal produce.

Recommended vegetables:
Pumpkin
Sweet Potatoe
Carrot
Squash
Courgette
Marrow
Tomatoe
Cucumber
Peppers
Chili Peppers
Brussel Sprouts
Corn

Leafy Greens (at least one of these should be given every day):
Broccoli with leaves and stalks
Kale
Watercress
Cavolo Nero
Savoy Cabbage
White or Red Cabbage (best served lightly steamed, however fresh one is ok to give)
Spinach (no more than one or two times a week)
Dark-leaf lettuce
Celery
Dandelion Greens
Purslane

Herbs (should be given just as for humans – as garnish, i.e in small amounts as they are too high in essential oils):
Parsley
Basil
Thyme
Rosemary
Oregano
Dill

Berries (Make an excellent addition to a diet, but best used when in season, and organic.):
Blueberries
Raspberries
Strawberries
Blackberries
Gooseberries
Blackcurrants
Redcurrants

Of the wild ones:
Rowan Berries
Hawthorn Berries (consider limiting to about 5-6 a day)
Blackberries
Sloes (no pips)
Rose hips

Fruit (should be given as a treat for one simple reason – the fruit we buy are very far from their wild ancestors, and contain too much sugar and not much of anything else.):
The best fruit to offer are:
Apples
Pears
Oranges
Kiwi
Melons
Bananas
Pineapple
Peach
Plum
Apricot
Grapes (limit to one or two grapes a day)

Papaya and Mango can be offered but have to be thoroughly peeled first. The skin of unripe Mango and Papaya contain toxins, but those papaya and mango we buy are usually picked unripe, so a care should be taken when and if feeding this fruit.

What you should aim for is to provide a large variety of fresh produce. Don’t concentrate on just one type of vegetable, offer as many as possible. To avoid picking, try blending all sorts of vegetables and greens in a food-processor, mixing with a few seeds and a chopped nut and serving it as a mash. Other ingredients can be added too. And here we move on to the next group of foods which should be included in the diet.

Grains and Pulses
These are the primary source of protein for the parrots. Parrots are vegetarians and should not be fed animal protein including eggs. The only time when parrots were ever observed consuming insects is during breeding. Unless you want to bring your parrot into hormonal state, avoid feeding any animals foods, like eggs, meat, fish etc.

Grains and pulses will provide a great source of protein and other nutrients.

Grains list:
Amaranth
Quinoa
Buckwheat
Barley
Wholemeal Cous Cous
Wheat grain
Spelt
Hulled Millet

Pulses:
Dried Peas
Lentils
Mung Beans
Aduki Beans
Chickpeas

Any other beans can be fed only after 8 hour soak, thorough rinse, and then 40-min rapid boil.

To prepare a good nutritious mix, containing a good amount of complete protein combine two parts of grains and one part of pulses. Cook according to the instructions on the package, mix altogether and freeze in portions. Defrost as needed.

Sprouted grains and pulses is another valuable component – more about it read herehttp://www.african-grey-parrots.co.uk/parrot-forum/index.php?topic=1635.0

Treats:
Red Palm Nuts – give one, maximum 2 nuts a day
Red Palm Oil or Extract – no more than 1 teaspoon a day, or less if fed Red Palm Nuts

Regular nuts – limit to about 3-4 (depending on size) nuts a day.

Suggested Nuts:
Walnuts
Pecans
Hazelnuts
Macademia
Pistachios (unsalted!)
Almonds
Cashews

Avoid feeding peanuts.

Seed mix – try to get the best seed mix possible and give it as a treat, in the amount of about 1 teaspoon a day, best given in foraging toys.

Food Supplements:

There are a few natural supplements you can consider adding to promote the good condition of your parrot:

Flax seed – grind up about 1/2 teaspoon of flax seed and sprinkle it on food. This will provide valuable essential fatty acids

Spirulina – sprinkle food with just a light dusting (a tiny pinch) of spirulina. Spirulina is an algae extremely rich in protein and other beneficial compounds. It should be given in minute amounts and it will still be very effective. Excessive amounts can lead to health problems.

Kale – this is another algae which is a good source of iron. It can also be added in a minute amount (a tiny pinch) as a light sprinkling on food.

Bee pollen – rich in enzymes and amino acids, can be added to food in the amount of about 1/4 of a teaspoon a couple of times a week

Echinacea – this herb is a natural antibiotic and immune stimulant, which can help birds with chronic conditions and those recovering from illnesses.

Probiotics – probiotics promote the growth of beneficial bactera in the gut, reducing the amount of bad bacteria, and consequently the likelihood of illness. All birds who have been on antibiotics should be given a course of avian probiotics. Feather-pluckers and those recovering from illnes will also benefit from a course of probiotics.

Never feed any foods containing salt or sugar. Salt toxicity in parrots can be fatal. A small amount of salt can lead to toxicity. For this reason avoid feeding table foods.
Parrots are flock animals and enjoy eating with their flock – you. If you want your parrot to be at the table when you are having dinner provide him with his own dish and fill it up with healthy foods, cooked especially for him. This could be a good time to give a treat too.

High-fat foods, like chips or any other deep-fried foods or fatty foods, like butter and high-fat cheese are very harmful too. Just as humans, parrots suffer from high-cholesterol, heart attacks, clogged up arteries, and enlarged liver (which has to to process all that fat!).

To make your parrot’s life just a bit more exciting, consider baking some birdie bread, cooking something like a special birdie pizza or pasta (wholemeal) with tomatoe sauce (a pureed tomatoe with a sprinkle of basil)  
For more recipes see here:
http://www.itsagreysworld.com/diet/recipes.htm
http://www.holisticbirds.com/pages/recipes0503.htm
http://www.africangreys.com/articles/nutrition/mashdiet.htm
http://www.parrothouse.com/recipes.html

Written by Irina of Parrot Comforts your number one source for affordable safe parrot toys.

In the wild, parrots spend hours foraging for food, they fly long distances to find a food or water source. The rest of the time they spend preening, sleeping and interacting with the flock. In captivity, we provide all the food in dishes and it takes a parrot maximum an hour a day to feed, so what is he supposed to do during the rest of the day? In some studied, plucking amazon parrots were divided into two groups. One group was given plenty of foraging opportunities and had to look for the food, another group was given food in bowls, as normally it is done. The group which had to forage for food grew feathers faster and resolved to plucking significantly less than the group who was served food in bowls.

So, what I am leading to – it is very important to enrich the environment of our birds. Toys is one way of enrichment, but not all toys are created equal and the bird should an access to a variety of toys – paper, cardboard, wooden, plastic/acrylic, foraging, etc.
If your bird doesn’t play with the toys, then you need to search for other types of toys which will attract its attention.
Instead of having only two bowls for food, get three or four smaller ones and distribute all sorts of different foods between them, cover the top with some paper, and let the bird explore what is hidden in each dish.

Just recently, I gave Digby a birdie bagel – those cardboard things – well he just dropped it on the floor and was done with it. Then I saw that Squidy puts the bagels between the cage bars, so I did that, he did show a little more interest, but not as much as I wanted. Again, thanks to Squidy and her creativeness, I saw that these bagels can be put together in a chain sort of way. So I made a chain of smaller bagels, and as I know Digby likes pulling and shredding on strips of paper and raffia, I tied some of those to the bagels – and success – he was busy pulling on the raffia and paper and destroying the bagels all morning and as a result – no plucked out feathers were found here is the result of Digby’s morning work

Birdie Bagel

If you haven’t seen these already, these are two of the best free booklets written about enrichment and toy making you can find on the internet. You can download them from this page (at the bottom) http://www.parrotenrichment.com/home.html

Bare in mind, that not all ideas described in the booklet will be suitable for your parrot, you have to know the habits of your bird, whether he chews things up and spits the bits out, or tend to swallow softer materials like paper. Some toys are best given only under the supervision, for example when the bird is out and playing on the playground, that includes toys which have many loose ropes and strings. Learn your parrot’s habit and try to enrich his environment as much as possible. In the end of the day, it is very easy to do and once you get the grip of it it will only take a few minutes.

Inspired by the booklet, a couple of days ago, I took a clean carton from Beak Appetit food, made two holes on one side and tied it to the cage of the bars with a leather string, filled the bucket with wooden pieces, some bits leftover from the toys Digby shredded previously and I just saved the bits, some shredders palm ribbon pieces, nutri-berries, a few nuts, etc. Digby enjoyed chucking all the stuff out of the carton and then nibbling on the carton itself!

My cockatiel and budgie don’t really like toys much, but they do like chewing all sorts of branches. So I took an untreated willow basket (which cost me only 99p), filled it with similar pieces as Digby’s “bucket”, threw in some pellets and a bit of seed in there, then tied a few wooden beads to the rim of the basket, and put a small wooden twig through it too. Well, it has been a success so far – they played in it all day long yesterday and all morning today – eating the food, picking the bits out, and nibbling on the basket itself.

Here is her diving in it

Cockatiel Playing In A Basket

Be creative, devote some time to creating all sorts of interesting toys and foraging opportunities for your bird. They live almost as long as us, humans, and we are never satisfied with the same setting or toys for long, are we? So don’t assume that that one wooden toy you bought will serve your bird for years and keep it happy. It won’t. They are too intelligent to be satisfied with just one type of toy.